E is for Esplanade

One of my favourite places to visit in Kolkata has always been the vibrant Esplanade area. It is such an eclectic mix of chaos, history, and commerce that it will take your breath away. If you don’t fall down from exhaustion of exploring everything, you will be quite overwhelmed by the sensory overload: teeming crowds, the ringing of tram bells, the aroma of street food, and the sight of massive architectural marvels from a bygone era. It isn’t just a place: it’s a whole vibe!

Let’s talk about the beautiful colonial buildings of the area first. There is the majestic Raj Bhavan, of course, the Governor’s residence, whose architecture was inspired by Kedleston Hall, which was the seat of the Curzon family in England. Then there is the grand, white Metropolitan Building, which used to be the premier department store of Whiteway, Laidlaw & Co. at one time. The flamboyant Art Nouveau residences with their green shuttered windows, known as the Esplanade Mansions, are also a sight to see.

Another notable architectural landmark is the Shahid Minar, a 48-metre-high memorial pillar, which was previously known as the Ochterlony Monument. Even the Tipu Sultan Mosque with its 16 domes and 4 turrets is in this locality. And while you are there, don’t forget to take in the sprawling Maidan, which has hosted perhaps every important political rally in Bengal, and the numerous statues that dot the landscape. And just a stone’s throw is the magnificent Indian Museum where you can while the whole day away looking at the marvellous displays.

Once you’ve had your fill of gazing at the beautiful heritage buildings, you can refill your energy with the luscious food sold by roadside vendors and historic eateries. There’s phuchka, jhaalmuri, or telebhaja if street food tickles your tastebuds. Or you can enjoy a juicy Kathi roll at Nizam’s. If Anglo-Indian snacks are more your speed, you can head over to Anandi Cabin for cutlet, kabiraji, or moghlai paratha. Want a more upmarket place? There are cafes, restaurants, and bars too. Pocket not willing to support that? Still no problem. You can head over to Dacres Lane (James Kickey Sarani) for affordable and delicious street food like mutton stew and fish fry.

Once you have re-energised yourself, it’s time for some shopping! Again, you have plenty of choice. You can bargain to your heart’s content with the hawkers occupying the footpaths or choose one of the shops that prominently display “No Bargain” signs, sometimes quite futilely. If you want to combine your shopping with historical interest, you can head over to the iconic New Market (earlier known as Hogg Market), a Gothic British-era building that houses over 2000 stalls. There are, of course, modern malls and shopping arcades too.

With your heart, mind, and stomach full, it’s time to head back. Here, too, you get options for travel. There are the ubiquitous city buses, of course, which you can catch from the chaotic Dharmatala hub. But you can take a tram too from the Tram Hub if you’re in the mood for a more relaxed journey. If that’s not your preference, you can head over to the Esplanade Metro Station to catch a metro either on the Blue (North-South) line or Green (East-West) line.

Now, where does it fit into Manik’s life in my series City of Kaali? Being someone who has spent a significant part of his century-and-a-half-old life in Kolkata, he has been witness to the evolution of Esplanade area into the hub of activity, heritage, and human emotion that it is today. As for what exactly he goes to Esplanade for, you will have to read the books to find out. In the meantime, if you’ve ever been there, why not drop a line in the comments about your own experiences?

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This post is a part of BlogchatterA2Z Challenge 2026